Build a
Tabletop Periscope
for Colonial-era Wargames
The tabletop periscope is
an easily-built device that allows the player to see any part of the table
from the figures' point of view. Because of the arrangement of the mirrors,
the player is able to look down at a comfortable angle and view the table
from the approximate eye-height of a 25mm figure. The device can be used
to determine line-of-sight or visibility, or simply for the pleasure of
placing yourself in the world of the game.
The picture at left depicts the periscope with one side removed to show the arrangement of the mirrors. The body can be made easily from foamcore board, using the techniques described on the Building Construction Page. The black-on-black board with black foam center, sold in art and craft stores and framing shops, is especially good for this project. The mirrors are inexpensive pocketbook mirrors from the variety store or craft store or birdcage mirrors from the petshop. Find the very cheap type with no bevelled edges or frame. The dimensions given below are based on a 2" x 3" (50.8 x 76.2mm) mirror and 3/16" foamcore.
Construction
Measure the exact width of the mirrors. Cut the back,
bottom, front, and angled top surface slightly wider than the width of the
mirrors. If you wish to use the rabbeted corners described on the Building
Construction Page, cut wider by 3/16" on each side and rabbet the edges.
The diagram shows the INSIDE dimensions of the box for a 2" high mirror.
You will need to cut the side pieces to these dimensions PLUS the thickness
of the body material on each edge. Two thicknesses are shown in the diagram:
for mat-board or illustration board (black), and for 3/16" foamcore
board (black plus grey). If you download the diagram by itself, and print
it out at full-size and you can use it as a actual-size template for cutting
the sides. Before cutting, check the measurements on the print to make sure
the printing really is actual size, or very close, and adjust your print
scaling if necessary.
Assemble the body, except for the angled top piece, and
let dry. If you did not use black board, you can paint the inside black
for less ambient light. After the paint dries, use thin double-sided tape
to mount mirror A. Run a bead of white (PVA) glue along the top and bottom
edges of the mirror for a solid bond. Put mirror B in place, but do not
glue; likewise temporarily place the angled top piece on. From about 6"
away, look into the top of the periscope at Mirror A and adjust the angle
of mirror B until you obtain a good view. Glue mirror B in place. Then glue
on the angled top.
If you aren't excited about the color of the board, you can paint the outside of the periscope in any way you like. One of the group's periscopes is painted to look like a native building and is fairly inconspicuous in use. Another, covered in black self-adhesive "contact paper," is visible in the photo of Max's table on the "Ground Surface, Hills and Vegetation" page. The periscope in the photo at left is painted to look like metal armor with shell splashes and painted-on rust, pits and scratches. It needs a few rivet heads, though. You could also paint the periscope in your national colors or uniform colors, perhaps with a color photocopy of a national flag or regimental crest glued onto the front. Oh heck, while you're at it, glue a small music box to the back to play your national anthem.
Other Size Mirrors
If you must use a mirror other than 2" x 3"
you will have to experiment with the geometry, and adjust the dimensions
of the box accordingly. One way is to make a scale drawing similar to the
side view here. On the drawing, trace the light rays to an eye about 6"
from the top opening, remembering what you learned in high-school physics:
the angle of incidence of a reflected beam is equal to the angle of reflection.
Find that scratched-up old protractor in the back of the drawer and do some
measuring. Use the final drawing as a guide for making the periscope body.
Or you could just take your mirror to a glass shop and have it cut to 2"x3", then use the measurements above.
RETURN
to the Scenery for Colonial Gaming page